Imagine a hiking trail 100 miles long with no particular destination. Rather than hiking to some specific place, what if the trail encircled a landmark, the most magnificent symbol of the Italian Renaissance—the Duomo, Cattedrale Santa Maria del Fiore—the main cathedral in the heart of Florence? Well, there is such a trail, called The Renaissance Ring, Anello del Rinascimento. The hiking experience results in the deepening of the magic and mystery of that special place known as Firenze—the heart of Tuscany!
The Pinnacle
The famous dome of the Duomo, was thought to be impossible to build, but has been a reality now for nearly 600 years. It’s both a miracle and masterpiece, designed in the 15th century by the great Filippo Brunellischi. Located near the banks of the River Arno, the unforgettable dome can be seen miles away, rising prominently amid the red tile roofs of the old city center. It looms with a rather surreal presence, seen from miles away.
Florence Italy
Florence has history, art and architecture like no other city. However, not many understand the unique relationship the “City of the Lily” has always shared with the rolling hills and beautiful countryside that surrounds the Arno river valley—the small towns that grew up alongside her, but certainly not in her shadow. Characterized by centuries of mutual influence and respect, the connections between the various areas become apparent as you experience the rather intimate valley, not from its center, but rather from its outer edges.
The people who lived in, and loved the surrounding countryside, gazed down into the city where the compelling dome stands watch. Or, if by chance the Duomo was not within view, they knew it was always there, visible from a nearby point just around the bend. And just like us, they surely felt a comfort at its familiar, awesome presence.
To celebrate the relationship between Florence and the communities that hold it, local organizations were tasked to create a continuous ring of trails leading past monasteries, castles, ancient walled cities, and country churches that all grew up together in that larger “Florentine family.” While unraveling the story, we’ve walked meadows, old Roman roads, mule trails, through olive groves, vineyards and cypress woods. There are 13 unique itineraries that break the 170 kilometers (100 miles) down into day-length pieces. With the help of train and bus schedules in hand, we charted our excursions, to experience the entire circle—slowly and thoughtfully, just like it evolved over the centuries.
Every leg of the grand circle can be coupled with a quaint overnight, or a relaxing Italian meal and a bus or train ride home. In any case, there will be a series of unforgettable experiences that add up to one grand loop around one of the world’s most fascinating regions.
Below is a companion story about one particular section of the circular trail that is known for its intact collection of ancient “Butter Houses,” scattered around the mountainside. Just click below to discover the rest of the story which is a unique hiking exploration all by itself.
C’era una volta, once upon a time, in the Tuscan hills just north of Florence, Italy, lived some very poor farmers. Their homes were usually one room, built high in the mountains, where both family and animals dwelled together. Life was difficult, but they were thankful for what they had.
This quote comes from the lyrics of the song called “Little Things.” Can you remember that last moment that crept up on you and you laughed so hard that you experienced rare tears of joy? What was it that brought about such a powerful visceral response? Buried within that moment is a treasure-trove of information about some part of you. Aren’t we all puzzles, piecing together the aspects of who we are? Take a look inside—there may be a surprise awaiting.
Related Story
Yesterday Me
Understanding the origin of tears can take a little digging. Do I cry because a tender moment surfaces from my memory bank ? Maybe a secret longing has awakened and it leaps into my throat. Are my tears ones of joy or sadness? Perhaps the source can’t quite be found or articulated. These lyrics were penned years ago in a story called “Yesterday Me.” Although the words weren’t written yesterday, the sentiment persists.
Recently, I read a post online about nature and the relationship between birds and branches. The pondering was simple. Yet the thoughts went deeper. The pondering/wondering went something like this: When a bird nears a branch, does she anticipate the branch’s ability to hold her or does she land without calculating the branch’s strength, but rather trust her ability to fly?
Trampoline trust
Since reading the post, I’ve been observing birds more closely. The day before yesterday I saw several birds actually using thin branches in a pretty elaborate and playful “dance.” One landed while the others fluttered. A second one landed and the one on the branch immediately sprang into the air. They resembled trampoline acrobats, engaged in a fascinating synchronized routine. I watched them for several minutes as they continued to create variations of that same pattern. Was it a mating ritual? Was it some form of bird zoomies after the rain? All I can say is that none of the birds seemed concerned about the strength of the branch, even with all of the bouncing.
Birds trusting the dance
So for me, the post/riddle seems to have been answered. It appeared as if the birds trusted in their ability to land or take flight at just the right moment. Their self-trust allowed them the opportunity to touch and fly, touch and fly. This very practiced routine continued for several minutes. Then suddenly the birds abandoned the swaying branch and flew away. I didn’t see any movement nearby, so I don’t know if they continued their dance on another close-by branch. I pondered their activity and then shifted my focus to humans in relationship with one another. Do we mimic the dance of the birds? Do we decide about whether or not to trust our abilities or do we calculate the strength of the branch?
At any point in time we could ask ourselves: Am I the bird? Or am I the branch? Is my confidence in myself or do I rely on something to support me? And if I am the branch, who counts on me to be strong enough to hold them? Does holding them keep them from flying or give them a springboard? Is this a mutually beneficial dance we’ve created?
Related Musical Story
Circle of Trust
Circle of Trust: This story is about a relationship of trust for us, that plays out around a campfire instead of on a tree branch. There is a similarity between our flitting exchange of conversation and the playful dance of the birds. Just click the title above to go directly to the story, or have a quick listen-in to the accompanying music below.
Here we are, greeting the new year again. Hard to believe, it’s 2026. January 1st brings us to a natural pause in the day-to-day action for some much needed reflection, resolution and gratitude. We would like to offer a simple note of hope and quiet optimism for the new year.
Quiet Comes Along
We wrote the following song as a lullaby, to shift ourselves into a more serene space, even if only temporarily. We feel the need to close each day and year with something soothing, something to calm frazzled nerves and agitated thoughts. The swaying rhythm and the reassuring words give us hope and the strength to face each tomorrow. When those new moments arrive, we will hopefully be refreshed and open with anticipation, yet braced, for whatever arrives. Yet, we are fully aware that at the end of every day, or extended period of challenge, once again, serenity will prevail. Quiet will surely Come Along.
Wishing you the very best,
Cheryl and Emerson
Music
Related Music and Story
Respite
You may also enjoy another song and story called “Backyard Tent,” where we recall our own special “quiet places” from childhood—where did we go to get away? The need to retreat is a human need that never changes, no matter our age.
Italians are very clever people—a trait that we admire.
Good Tuscan Soil
Especially in the country, people have always had to struggle just to get by. Tuscany has to be the rockiest ground in the world, and that alone is enough to get the juices going as to how to make a living on the land. Resourcefulness is in their blood. Someone once said that if he was a farmer and found himself in Tuscany, he would ask God what he did to make him so mad. Even today, the habit persists of scouring the countryside for nature’s abundant bounty. Old habits die hard as you see people along country roads foraging for part of their dinner—whether it’s for mushrooms, berries or whatever they can find that’s edible. They know how to fend for themselves. But the energy and persistence required to eke out subsistence is just one part of the intriguing Italian puzzle.
Strong Group Identity
Italy has been divided and conquered for almost as long as anyone can remember. Rivalries have endured over the centuries, because provincial identity was about as good as it could possibly get. A friend from Florence actually told us that for him, Tuscany doesn’t exist south of the Arno River. It wasn’t until the mid-eighteen hundreds that anything resembling a truly united Italy was even a remote possibility. And now, even though it is one nation state, the strong sense of regionalism or family identity endures, rooted deeply in the culture.
Family Ties
We have often thought that, and perhaps rightfully so, there is little trust in Italy. They have experienced wars and takeovers, new and often bad rulers for their entire history. They never knew what would happen next, so it was always best to maintain strong personal capabilities. They relied on knowing that the family was and is one of the truly trustworthy groups in which to invest yourself for true security. For these reasons and more, you won’t find Italians dutifully waiting in line, or simply following the slower car in front of them. Windows of opportunity are created to jump through. Dangerously passing on a winding two lane road happens because they can, and not because they need to, almost as if practicing to stay nimble. We’ve seen passing cars narrowly miss the oncoming car, the bicycle or the nonna, grandmother out for a stroll. Then the same speeding vehicle immediately turns screeching into the next driveway.
An Italian can take any law apart piece by piece and then put it back together in a way that suits them. In Italy, it’s common to keep asking different people until you get the answer you want—and every “correct” answer is out there somewhere. We think this is partly where the slow processes, the famously Italian bureaucracy comes from. Everyone wants to make things happen the way they want them to happen, and they’re willing to take their sweet time to get their way—even if it seems to take forever.
Keep your balance
There is a special word here that aptly describes a unique quality of resourcefulness that frequently comes into play. It’s known as furbo. In English, the closest word is “clever,” however that doesn’t really do it justice. Furbo balances on that fine line between a compliment and a insult. The fact is, many of the problems that pop-up in Italy just plain won’t get solved without a special technique or perspective. Unfortunately, it’s in that gray area of cunning and covert activity that the line sometimes gets crossed, and furbo becomes questionable. You have to be careful that you don’t fall into becoming a victim of unseen opportunity—for the benefit of others. Someone could be dancing on that fine line, trying to make progress on their own agenda, perhaps seeing you as an easy mark.
You could say it’s possible to be too clever for someone else’s good. But, if you’re on your toes, you can successfully engage in this unique Italian free-for-all, where almost everybody eventually gets what they want—we said almost. Come to think about it, there really isn’t anything unusual about such behavior since there’s probably some version of that trait the world around. Maybe the difference is simply in the way the Italians play the game—which, frankly, makes it so much fun!
First posted onOctober 1, 2010
Related Story
You might also be interested in “The Art of Trickery”: The brain picks up visual cues that are recognizable, instantly fitting them into familiar patterns. In a flash, it issues a report about what’s going on. The brain fills in the blanks. This form of trickery is harmless and quite entertaining as you will see, a thing of beauty.
Music
Here’s a song called “The Pusher,” about a different form of trickery—when a cleverly furbo individual loses their balance, they can become an overt bully instead. It’s a slippery slope!
The Adventures of Pinocchio is a classic, right? Disney put the marionette on the big screen in 1940 and Jiminy Cricket became an overnight success. But the real story is from Italy, Tuscany, to be exact. It symbolically represents Italy, as it grew into a unified country.
So we decided to read the book, first penned by Carlo Collodi in 1883—in its original language, as they say—Italian. Little did we know that our simple decision would be such a task. We decided to read one chapter a day. Pretty good, right? Well, no, when you consider that the average chapter is only about 5 pages long, and that includes pictures!
Our Pinocchio kit
Here’s our routine: we have an English version that we keep handy to check our translations; we have an Italian version in which Emerson writes copious notes (definitions, idiomatic phrases, verb forms etc.); I also have the original Italian version on an iPad; together, we use 2 dictionaries and one verb book; and finally, we access a translator online called, My Translator. Once we have our pile of books, pencils, erasers and various accoutrements, we begin just after lunch each day with a strong sense of anticipation and determination..
Pinocchio fully notated
Emerson reads the chapter title, for example, Pinocchio è derubato delle sue monete d’oro e, per gastigo, si busca quattro mesi di prigione. Translation: Pinocchio is robbed of his coins of gold and, for punishment, is put in prison for four months. Now, we think this is more than a regular title. A title is something like, “A Day at the Beach.” You know, there’s some over-arching topic that captures the essence and your attention. But the Pinocchio chapter titles are spoilers. They tell you what happens BEFORE you read it. Then Collodi goes into all the details of how the chain of events took place, but you already know the poor marionette is going to prison.
In the pokey
The other thing about the title is that we look up nearly every word. For example, Derubato. Oh, it’s a verb and this is the past tense. Okay. Monete. Oh, coins. D’oro. This is a common contraction. The word di means of. When it’s placed before a word that begins with a vowel, you leave out the i because, heaven forbid you put two vowels together! Okay, got it. Di oro = d’oro = of gold. Well, you get the picture. Every chapter is a language lesson as well as a lesson in logic. Why would Pinocchio go to prison? He was robbed. Well, the logic here is that if you’re foolish enough to be duped, you deserve punishment. Really?!
Actually, the Italian culture and thought process is something quite unique. The stories they concoct and the way they choose to say it, are nothing short of original art—funny and entertaining, yet thought-provoking at the same time.
Taccini ceramic
When we first discovered that Pinocchio is Italian, we went to a town west of Florence called Montelupo (which means wolf mountain), where an artist named Eugenio Taccini lives and works creating unique ceramic pieces. He’s well known for his depictions of Pinocchio. In fact, he actually made pieces of artwork for each of the chapters, exploring their deep psychological meanings. It became a form of therapy for him as he dove into the hidden messages. As an Italian, he wanted to use the original story to explore the process of change and transformation. Beneath the external beauty of Italian life, love and laughter, there are many deep thinkers pondering something profound and meaningful.
Pinocchio’s home town
Then we decided to make a trip to Collodi, the town where young Carlo Lorenzini spent summers and from which he took his pen name. Collodi is now known as the town of Pinocchio. There are restaurants named for those in the book. There’s an amusement park for children with all things Pinocchio. But in addition, there’s an amazing hillside baroque park called Garzoni Gardens. It’s considered one of the most beautiful gardens in all of Italy. It’s another example of the paradox that underlies Italian thinking: the whimsical, childlike attitude juxtaposed with the heady formal, compelling, meticulously planned.
So we’re on chapter 21 in the book. My bookmark only jumps a few pages a day. But, for the first time, I’m beginning to understand Pinocchio on multiple levels. As you might expect, the original is much more earthy than the Disney version. He’s more real. And that’s just the wood marionette. I can hardly wait to see how the world changes when seen through the eyes of a real boy.
First posted onOctober 1, 2011
Related Story
Reading the Yogurt Cups: Pinocchio is perhaps one of the earliest “Psychological Thrillers” ever. No story is any more psychologically rooted than that classic. This other story about yogurt cups is much more straightforward, but holds its own human potential
The Musical Storiescan also be found in the Main Menu under “Music.” However, on occasion one may be highlighted in a post like this to align with a season, holiday, current related topic or just for fun. You can go directly to the post by clicking below—so relax, read along, listen-in. Click Here
His full name is Henri Marie Raymond de Toulouse-Lautrec-Montfa, but most of us know him simply as Toulouse-Lautrec. He was an artist known for his renditions of the life he lived and observed, as well as for his diminutive stature. Due to a genetic weakness that rendered his bones brittle and vulnerable, he unfortunately broke both legs when he was a young boy. The result was a disturbing stunted appearance. Ever self-conscious about his physical imperfections, he found himself most at home with common people who had their own obvious flaws. He was especially drawn to the fascinating theatrical lifestyle of Paris in the late 19th century, even though, as his hyphenated name suggests, his family had deep aristocratic roots.
Playful self portrait
Toulouse-Lautrec became a famed artist, printmaker, master caricaturist, draughtsman and illustrator during his short life (1864 to 1901). He was also a gourmet food lover who invited his guests to dine with him via formal, artistic invitations. He even described the anticipated menu and commented that a meal was very similar to any other artistic expression—full of color, in both the foods and the guests. Meals and people were meant to be savored and shared. He often directed conversation to inspire lively exchanges.
Can-can dancers
Lautrec’s many associations in the vibrant milieu of Paris’ Montmartre district allowed him simultaneous front row and backstage views of that world of wonderfully “imperfect people,” like him. He was deeply immersed in the imagery of decadence—empathizing with the every-day plight of the working-class characters swirling around him, performing in the theaters. The famous Moulin Rouge (Red Mill) drew boisterous crowds, Lautrec interpreted them to be willing subjects, part of the “show.” The frenetic energy of the “can-can” invigorated the audience. Brothels of the area added to the attitude of decadence and pleasure. Lautrec enjoyed all of it, leaving a colorful, artistic “journal” for us to understand and appreciate his contribution to a rapidly evolving world of art. Although Lautrec enjoyed success and notoriety while he lived, he was destined to succumb to his circumstances and choices. An illness abruptly ended his life when he was merely 37 years old.
Ospedale
We think Toulouse-Lautrec would have found this exhibit to be the perfect expression of his artistic flair, since it was such a unique presentation. The historic corridors of the space were transformed into Parisian passageways that transported us back in time. Anchoring one side of the Piazza Santissima Annunziata, the beautiful Renaissance “Ospedale degli Innocenti” was the perfect choice for the exhibition. The 1419 architectural masterpiece was conceived by Fillipo Brunelleschi as a Children’s Hospital and Orphanage to support and care for the children abandoned during the Florentine Renaissance. (Brunelleschi also designed the famous dome of Florence’s grand cathedral—il Duomo.) The contrast of the exquisite historical building with Lautrec’s avant-garde style accentuated both.
Seeing 19th century art with 21st century eyes has become “normal,” yet to have that experience in a 600 year old architectural gem seems almost miraculous.
Stock Photo
Coming back outside into the brilliant Florentine sunshine, after having spent a 90 minute immersion into the late 19th century underbelly of Parisian cabaret life was a bit shocking and overwhelming. We had just glimpsed inside the life and mind of one of the world’s most influential artists of the late 1800s.
Following is a video of a “passageway experience” within the exhibit, along with a few amateur snapshots of his masterful work. Notice how accurately he captured the essence of a complex personality with a single, delicate line of the face, the audacious glint of an eye, or the subtle slant of an expressive black hat—absolutely fantastic!
On a backroad between Borgo San Lorenzo and the small town of Polcanto, in Tuscany, just north of Florence, an unknown artist has taken an open, sunny patch of meadow and created an outdoor exhibit, a seemingly permanent Art Gallery of sorts. Each unique piece is weathered and worn, allowing the natural patina to be the final artistic touch. The exhibit appears to be a dynamic, additive process, with some pieces showing more age and weathering mirroring the passage of time (perhaps years), while others seemed like more recent additions.
Two of the sculptures were quite detailed and complex, using a very modern-day material, Corten steel (a special alloy that forms a stable external layer of rust). The large heart-shaped steel plates were incised with the first stanza of the Rumi poem: Ode 314—which offers commentary on our choice of living our lives “asleep” or “awakened.” He suggests that life is to be lived with intention and reflection. Without judgment, he suggests that the alternative is simply sleep. He even advises against disturbing this sleep. It’s sort of a live and let live perspective. Perhaps he’s posing the question of readiness. But clearly his choice is to take the way of intention. The first stanza is shown below.
In stark contrast, another sculptural piece is in the form of a collage. Another, is a fluttering collection of random neck ties, suspended from the branches of an oak tree. Do the ties relate to the steel heart? Or to the other pieces? Are these expressions from the same artist, or is this an open invitation to anyone who feels inspired? Either way, it is compelling enough to warrant a closer look from any passersby, either on foot or enjoying a peaceful drive on a typical Tuscan side road.
Signature?
We found what could be an artist’s name in only one location, but couldn’t verify it. So, this “pop-up gallery” appeared to be a relatively anonymous gift offered freely without recognition or reward. All we know about the prolific creator(s) is the number 46 adjacent to a gravel drive that disappears down the hillside. We wonder what lies at the end of that ordinary country drive. One day, we might take a walk down that meandering road to see what’s at the other end. If we discover more to this story we’ll definitely let you know.
Side Note:A few days before discovering this Roadside Gallery, we visited the Palazzo Strozzi exhibit in Florence, viewing the collected work of Fra Angelico—what a fascinating contrast to the Roadside Exhibit.
To read that story, go to Perspectives: Immersion Into Religion Through Art.
Gallery of Roadside Art
Broken Heart of Rusted Steel (Right Side – Poem by Rumi)
Ode 314 (First Stanza) Those who don’t feel this Love pulling them like a river, those who don’t drink dawn like a cup of spring water or take in sunset like supper, those who don’t want to change, let them sleep.
Broken Heart of Rusted Steel (Left Side – author unknown) The last stanza – translated from the original Italian version:
Imagine utopia
Dream of Ithaca and hope the road you choose is long
Live in the moment, the emotion, the desire
Now.
We went to an exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi in Florence, which is an incredible experience, even without an exhibition. Fortunately, the Palazzo was the site chosen for a once-in-a-lifetime collection of paintings from around the world by the Renaissance artist Beato Angelico. He was also known as Fra Angelico (Dominican Friar 1395-1455) prior to being canonized by the Catholic Church. He is now acclaimed as one of the greatest artists in all of Italy—ever! That’s a significant statement.
The exhibit was truly amazing. Ever loyal to his faith, Fra Angelico was a painter, sculptor, and creator of Illuminated Manuscripts (texts decorated for the reader’s enlightenment or illumination). He expressed his religious awe through a unique ability to render his subjects nearly translucent. The luminosity of the skin tones and his use of color is absolutely magical. The addition of gold leaf to highlight the halos of the saintly religious figures, as well as the intricate attention to detailing is quite mind boggling.
There are, of course, many fierce competitors in the Italian lineage of great artists like: Michelangelo, Botticelli, Giotto, Leonardo da Vince and Caravaggio, just to name a few. But after the exhibit, we had to agree that Fra Angelico’s art and impeccable character seemed inseparable and incomparable. If you ever get the chance to experience his artistic gifts to the world, seize the opportunity.
A few days after the Strozzi exhibit, we were in the countryside just north of Florence and happened upon a different artist’s work in a very different “Gallery.” The contrast with the Fra Angelico exhibit was remarkable and quite thought-provoking. Watch for another story coming soon—part 2 of Perspectives: Free Spirit and Free Form.
Related Music
You might also enjoy some music written about the Spiritual Quest and how the deep, personal changes find their way into Each Cell of our Being. We imagine the young Fra Angelico moving quietly through stone arches, meditating as he struggles with a longing to serve as both loyal friar to the religious order, while accomplishing his patrons’ requests for commissions. With his art, Fra Angelico elevated his patrons’ status, while making his unique way through a humble monastic life.
Each Cell
You can also find the original story and video that accompanied the song called Each Cell, from 2005, as we visited the beautiful Italian Monestery of Madonna del Sasso in Tuscany.
Credits (Each Cell Music)
From Where I Need to Be, track released June, 2005
Cheryl Martlage – Lyrics and vocals
Emerson Martlage – Music, guitar and vocals
Tom Tomasello – Producer/Arranger
Jim Bruno – Vocal producer
Mr Toad’s San Francisco – Mastering
Inspiration – The kind Monk from Madonna del Sasso
Cheryl & Emerson
Quality time is undeniably great for relationships. We've discovered that quantity of time can provide that quality. Perhaps it takes Time to Partner.
Quality time is undeniably great for relationships. We've discovered that quantity of time can provide that quality. Perhaps it takes Time to Partner.
Uncommon promise 